It’s one of my biggest pet peeves is when people immediately call any dress shoe an oxford. Not all dress shoes are created equal. This sounds like greek for some men and a lot of women, but it’s a lot like women’s heels; not all heel are kitten heels or pumps, not all men’s dress shoes are oxfords or loafers. Here is the breakdown of men’s dress shoes, the brogues.

What are brogues?
They are a type of shoe that’s made out of multiple pieces of (usually leather) material that is sewn together. Brogues have a distinct design about them that looks like punctured holes on the material for decorative purposes. These holes, called brogueing, are usually seen near the cap of the shoe. Here are 4 types of brogues you should educate yourself on.

Photo courtesy of Mr. Porter

Full Brogue: Also known as the wingtip brogue. The cut out that makes the toe cap, look like wings or the shape of “W” and the brogues usually along the winged toe cap and sometimes in the center of the toe cap.

Wear this if you:
-  are a true sartorialist in the making, or
- make less money than you dress.

Photo courtesy of Ben Silver

Semi Brogue: Unlike the wingtip brogue, the semi has a less elaborate toe cap that cuts off right after your toes (or maybe if you’re really into freaky bespoke footwear, you can tailor one that cuts off your toes too, hmm?) The brogueing are usually located on the edge and in the middle of the toe cap.

Wear this if you:
- have long feet, or
- never hem your pants right but you’re still very adamant that you’re fancy.

Photo courtesy of Rag New York

Quarter Brogue: A variation of the semi, but with brogues only on the edge of the toe cap. Less is more, more or less.

Wear this if you:
- think you’re a minimalist, or
- have slight trypophobia.

Photo courtesy of The Shoe Buff

Long wing Brogue: A variation of the wingtips but the “wings” or “W” are extended all the way to the back of the heel.
Wear this if you:
- are square, or
- have a midlife crisis.

Final notes:
DO experiment with fun colors.
DO NOT say a brogue is an oxford. An oxford is a type of closing on men’s dress shoes.
DO roll your hem above your ankles.
DO NOT wear a square toe dress shoes of any kind.
DO educate your friends on the type of brogues.