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Clothes encounters

The right women’s fashions can help flatter every shape

Alycia Lewis

November 30, 2006 | 12:00 a.m. CST

From girdles to control-top pantyhose and corsets to Wonderbras, women have spent centuries searching for clothes that will hide, control, flatten, smooth, pad, lift and separate. They despise their perceived flaws, and finding fashionable clothes that shift attention to their favorite features is the first step toward feeling good.

Kirsteen Buchanan, assistant professor in the fashion department at Stephens College, says clothes that fit incorrectly are the most notable fashion mishaps she sees. She recommends looking at an outfit from all angles in a three-way mirror and taking an honest friend along for the shopping trip.

Fashion fix

Problem: Undefined ankles

Fashion fix: Ankle jewelry, shoes with ankle straps, cropped pants that hit the thinnest part of the ankle or a skirt that falls below the knee at the most slender part of the leg

Legs. For some women they’re more than just reliable transportation: They’re a symbol of femininity, fitness and status.

Since the word “cankles” came into our vocabulary, though, women have become particular about emphasizing the slight tapering of their ankles. Those without well-defined ankles can “make a faux ankle,” Wilson and Chatterton say, with cropped pants that taper to the thinnest part of the ankle, shoes with ankle straps or ankle jewelry, which create lines that draw the eye to the narrowest part of the leg.

Problem: Short legs or wide thighs

Fashion fix: Pointy-toed heels, pleated pants, a slightly flared skirt or straight-legged pants that fall loosely from the thigh

Buchanan, Wilson and Chatterton all agree that gaucho pants are, thankfully, on their way out. Buchanan explains they look good on tall, slender women. If a more petite woman wants to rock the gaucho look, Buchanan advises she dress in one color to give the illusion of being taller. Shorter legs can also look longer with a pair of wider leg trousers that fall straight from the hips and a pointy-toed heel that elongates the leg.
For “thunder thighs,” Buchanan recommends pleated pants or a slightly flared skirt. She also suggests wearing straight-legged pants that fall loosely from the thigh. This gives the appearance of a more proportionate leg.

Problem: Matronly arms

Fashion fix: A tank top under a jacket or blazer, three-quarter length or flowing sleeves

Another common complaint of women is that their arms are too short or bigger toward the top — sometimes referred to as “matronly arms.” To lengthen and slenderize arms, Wilson and Chatterton recommend a tank top and jacket or three-quarter length sleeves.

Soft, fluttery sleeves that give the illusion of a narrower shoulder are also a way to lengthen the arm, Chatterton says. Buchanan also advises that dark colors appear to recede, so arms clad in black rather than acid green will be less noticeable and might even look smaller.

Problem: Finding the perfect jeans

Fashion fix: Jeans with a little stretch, a loose blouse paired with skinny jeans

To be a vision in denim, Wilson and Chatterton recommend jeans with a waist neither right below the ribs nor sitting directly on the hipbones. Fit is crucial, and a little stretch can add comfort. After all, a walk resembling that of the Tin Man is anything but sexy.

Buchanan says she’s troubled by the unsightly roll of fat that bulges over the waistbands of women who select a size too tight. To ensure a good fit, Buchanan recommends sitting down in the pants. “If it hurts,” she quips, “it’s probably too small.”

MU freshmen Kara Sussman and Katlynn O’Connor say they avoid “muffin-top jeans” — an Oprah Winfrey term for jeans that cause spillage over the waistband.

“I just got skinny jeans, but I’m nervous about them,” O’Connor says. Sussman, her shopping buddy, reassures her that the jeans look great. A tip for those who want to pull off this look: Get the right size jeans, and incorporate a looser layer such as a tunic or fitted blouse on top.

Problem: Thick torso

Fashion fix: Fitted layers or a fitted jacket that pulls in at the ribcage

“Girls over size 10 are draping themselves in fabric because they are trying to hide in the corner,” Wilson says. But shirts and blouses cut close to the body can flatter the form better than an amorphous, flowing muumuu designed to hide curves.

Keep in mind, too, that stitching and lines will likely emphasize parts of the body they cut across, so seams shouldn’t lead to areas the wearer does not want to stand out. A fitted shirt that skims the body is ideal. Jackets cinched near the ribcage can also slenderize the torso by curving in at its thinnest part, Buchanan and Wilson say.

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She adds that even fitted clothing is not meant to show every bulge.

“When we make clothes, we have a basic pattern — a little bit of extra room or ‘ease,’ ” she says.

Lori Anne Gaddy of Downtown Alterations says her line of work is all about fine-tuning the fit of garments.

“Fine-tailored clothing conceals the body’s flaws, but it also accentuates the positive,” she says. “I can make anyone look good.” Gaddy advises shoppers to buy clothing to fit their largest areas comfortably, and then have the clothing taken in elsewhere.

“I see people who are squeezing into a size 6 when they really should be in a size 10,” says Downtown Alterations employee Jeff Thompson, emphasizing that women’s fashion is all about proportion. “You’re going to look smaller in that size 10.”

Echoing the importance of proportion, Buchanan describes fashion as illusion at work. It’s all about seams, lines, colors and drawing attention to desired areas — like some exotic bird’s mating display. Many designers use these principles to make the wearer’s face more noticeable with a collar, a scarf or a brightly colored accessory, she says.

Blackberry Exchange owner Laura Wilson and assistant manager Sarah Chatterton echo Buchanan’s emphasis on proper fit. Rather than being “addicted to a specific size,” women should use size as a guideline while shopping to find the garment that looks and feels best.

“Women nitpick everything,” says Chatterton, explaining there is no consistent “problem area” for women. She and Wilson often help customers make selections and offer tips on how to flatter their favorite features without hiding themselves.

Suzy Day, a 22-year-old MU senior, says she’s never the same size from year to year. Her most important fashion advice is for people to take a whole day to find clothes they love — even if it means trying on every pair of jeans in the store.

Buchanan explains her profession’s mission as a melding of the needs and wants of the consumer with the art of the designer. It’s a mission that is often misconstrued, she says, as women seek to fit some ideal size or look.

Some of Wilson and Chatterton’s goals include helping women find the right outfits to feel confident, look good, have fun and emphasize their favorite features.

Wilson and Chatterton encourage women of all shapes and sizes to find clothes that make them feel secure. Clothes are important, Chatterton says, but they’re not everything.

“With the energy that women put into this ... we could be changing the world in 100 million ways.”

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